The Unforgettable Allure of Pyongyang Naengmyeon – Bridging Two Koreas Through Taste

1. Introduction: Delving into the Cold Delight

Among the myriad dishes that define Korean cuisine, Pyongyang Naengmyeon which is a kind of Naengmyeon stands as a testament to the rich culinary traditions of the Korean peninsula. This dish, with its simple yet profound flavors, encapsulates a history and culture that spans centuries. Pyongyang Naengmyeon is a cold noodle dish, distinctively known for its thin, chewy buckwheat noodles submerged in a clear, icy broth. The broth, traditionally made from simmered beef or sometimes pheasant, is both refreshing and deeply flavorful. The dish is often complemented with garnishes like thinly sliced Korean pear, cucumber, radish, and a boiled egg, each adding a layer of texture and taste to the ensemble. Originating from Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea, this dish has a storied history. It was crafted out of necessity, a way to utilize available ingredients during the colder months. But over time, it evolved, becoming a culinary icon celebrated not just in its place of origin but throughout the Korean peninsula and beyond. But Pyongyang Naengmyeon is more than just a delightful meal. It’s a symbol of shared heritage, a dish that resonates with tales of yesteryears, of families gathering around a table, of celebrations, and of a shared identity that remains undivided by geopolitical boundaries. In essence, to understand Pyongyang Naengmyeon is to embark on a journey—a journey through Korea’s rich history, its culinary evolution, and its unwavering spirit. Whether you’re a first-time sampler or a long-time aficionado, every bowl of Pyongyang Naengmyeon offers a taste of a culture that’s both timeless and ever-evolving.

2. History: The Origins and Evolution of Pyongyang Naengmyeon

The tale of Pyongyang Naengmyeon is as rich and intricate as the flavors that dance on the palate with every bite. To trace its origins is to journey back through time, navigating the annals of Korea’s storied past.

Ancient Beginnings

The roots of cold noodle dishes in Korea can be traced back to the Goryeo Dynasty, a period that spanned from the 10th to the late 14th century. Historical records and writings from this era make mention of chilled noodle dishes, suggesting that the concept of cold noodles has been embedded in Korean culinary traditions for centuries.

Birth in Pyongyang

While cold noodles might have been enjoyed in various forms, the specific variant known as Pyongyang Naengmyeon began its journey in the capital of North Korea. Pyongyang, with its unique climate and access to specific ingredients, became the birthplace of this distinct dish. The city’s cold winters necessitated the creation of dishes that could be stored and consumed over extended periods. Buckwheat, a hardy crop that thrived in the region, became the primary ingredient for the noodles, while the broth was derived from available meats, often beef or pheasant.

Culinary Refinement

Over the years, as culinary techniques evolved and new ingredients became accessible, Pyongyang Naengmyeon underwent refinements. The broth became clearer, the noodles more delicate, and the garnishes more varied. The dish transitioned from being a winter staple to a year-round favorite, especially relished during the hot summer months for its refreshing qualities.

A Symbol of Unity

The tumultuous history of the Korean peninsula, particularly the division into North and South, added another layer to the narrative of Pyongyang Naengmyeon. Post the Korean War, as refugees from the North made their way to the South, they brought with them the cherished recipe of this cold noodle dish. It quickly gained popularity in the South, becoming a symbol of shared heritage and nostalgia for a unified homeland.

Modern-Day Popularity

Today, Pyongyang Naengmyeon is celebrated on both sides of the border. In the South, it’s not uncommon to find restaurants dedicated solely to this dish, each boasting its unique take on the classic. The dish’s prominence was further highlighted during the inter-Korean summits, where it served as a gesture of unity and shared history.

In Conclusion

The journey of Pyongyang Naengmyeon, from the ancient courts of the Goryeo Dynasty to the modern tables of Korea and beyond, is a testament to its enduring appeal and the timeless nature of Korean culinary traditions. It stands as a dish that has not only withstood the test of time but has also become a beacon of shared identity and cultural pride.

3. Pyongyang Naengmyeon: An In-depth Look

The definition of Pyongyang cold noodles is cold buckwheat noodles flavored with meat broth mixed with dongchimi . As can be inferred from the fact that cold noodles themselves are quite rare worldwide, Pyongyang cold noodles have a taste quite different from regular noodles. Generally, in South Korea, when people mention Pyongyang cold noodles, they often think of a bland taste rather than a sweet and sour one. However, strictly speaking, it’s not a bland broth but a unique meat broth flavor. Depending on how this meat broth flavor is achieved, the taste can vary. Moreover, the period when cold noodles became popular among the masses was during the Japanese colonial era when MSG was introduced. Therefore, MSG is almost always added to Pyongyang cold noodles, and depending on the amount of MSG added, the taste can vary greatly. This is due to the unique combination of cold meat broth mixed with dongchimi. In conclusion, the taste of Pyongyang cold noodles, made from a combination of dongchimi, meat broth, coldness, and buckwheat noodles, inevitably varies depending on the ratio of these ingredients. This has led to endless debates about the actual taste of Pyongyang cold noodles, making it one of the biggest mysteries in South Korean cuisine. In other words, the taste of Pyongyang cold noodles varies from restaurant to restaurant and chef to chef. Based on the general perception in South Korea, at the very least, when people say “Pyongyang-style”, they refer to cold noodles with a subtle meat broth flavor, especially those with a complex taste that’s hard to describe, as the best. This was believed to be a concept also accepted in Pyongyang itself (at least from the southern perspective), and it was a verifiable fact until the time of Kim Jong-il. Thanks to various routes through which people visited the North, it was cross-verified that the real Pyongyang cold noodles broth is not sweet and sour but meaty. This allowed for some debate about what genuine Pyongyang cold noodles should taste like, even outside of Pyongyang.

However, recently, the trend of the representative Pyongyang cold noodles restaurant, Okryugwan, has shifted to “moderately seasoning” the noodles, challenging the existing consensus. While the broth still seems to maintain its subtle meaty flavor, the addition of seasonings that weren’t originally used indicates that a page in history has already turned in Pyongyang itself. Whether this change in Okryugwan’s cold noodles is influenced by South Korean-style Pyongyang cold noodles or is a result of convergent evolution is unclear. North Korean restaurants claim that sprinkling vinegar on the noodles is an ‘invention of Kim Il-sung’. Of course, Okryugwan is not everything. Pyongyang cold noodles are not a recipe monopolized by one restaurant but a food culture centered around the vast area of Pyongyang. There’s a high possibility that common elements remembered by North Korean defectors and those from the North have been standardized in South Korea after the division of the North and South. For example, compared to South Korean-style Pyongyang cold noodles that adhere to a certain buckwheat content ratio, Okryugwan’s noodles have had reduced buckwheat for a long time. In some ways, South Korean Pyongyang cold noodles might be preserving more of the original essence. Okryugwan has also been open for 63 years since the division of North and South. Given the changes in the tastes of the ruling class and the passage of time, it’s a stretch to believe that Okryugwan has fully preserved the cooking methods and tastes from 63 years ago. Both the North and South have evolved in different directions. Just as it’s not right for Pyongyang cold noodle supremacists to deny the differences between the North and South and dogmatically insist on a certain way of eating Pyongyang cold noodles, it’s also inappropriate to aggressively attack and belittle South Korean Pyongyang cold noodles by saying things like “They even add seasoning and vinegar over there?” just because Okryugwan is located in Pyongyang. Due to the differences in the direction of change brought about by the division of North and South, after reunification, there’s a high possibility that the trend will have changed even more. In this case, what the people of Pyongyang enjoy as cold noodles and what the South thinks of as original Pyongyang cold noodles might become entirely different things. And since the name “Pyongyang cold noodles” contains ‘Pyongyang’, the identity of the dish will inevitably be based on Pyongyang. However, if the taste of cold noodles in Pyongyang changes significantly or continues to evolve in a different direction after reunification, we might have to redefine what Pyongyang cold noodles are.

3. Pyongyang Naengmyeon in South Korea

Famous cold noodle restaurants are concentrated in Seoul, but there are sporadic places selling Pyongyang cold noodles even in the southern regions far from Pyongyang. Many of these are old establishments, actually started by refugees who came aboard LSTs during the Hungnam evacuation operation. In Busan, where it was much easier to obtain wheat flour aided by the U.S. than buckwheat, wheat noodles became the mainstream. In areas where buckwheat can be cultivated on sloping fields, they continue to supply buckwheat and carry on the business of Pyongyang cold noodles.

Modern South Korean Pyongyang cold noodles are characterized by not using much starch. This contrasts with South Korea’s Hamheung cold noodles, which extensively utilize starch. While there’s a strong tendency to highlight buckwheat noodles, it’s rare to find places making noodles with 100% pure buckwheat. Even restaurants advertising buckwheat noodles usually mix them in a ratio of at least 3:7 (buckwheat to wheat). Wheat flour is added because pure buckwheat noodles, due to their low elasticity, break easily, not suiting consumer preferences. While modern technology allows for decent noodles made from 100% buckwheat, it can’t be considered traditional. In the Joseon era, there was no technology to completely remove buckwheat husks, resulting in grayish noodles with specks of husk. In fact, the buckwheat noodles of Gangwon-do are closer to the original form of cold noodle strands than today’s Pyongyang cold noodles.

The appearance of the noodles varies depending on how buckwheat is used. Most noodles use buckwheat mix buckwheat flour with wheat flour and starch for kneading, then extrude it hydraulically. Buckwheat lacks gluten, making it less suitable for kneading, and its alkalinity is low, making the dough less stable. Hence, wheat flour and starch are mixed with buckwheat flour to facilitate dough formation and maintenance.

However, there are cases where only buckwheat flour is used for kneading. Noodles made solely from buckwheat, known as ‘pure noodles’, have a chewy and nutty texture but lack a smooth taste and elasticity, leading to polarized preferences. As mentioned earlier, dough made from 100% buckwheat cannot be prepared in advance, so noodles are made on the spot when ordered. This means it takes longer for the cold noodles to be served and they are more expensive than noodles mixed with starch. However, those who prefer the unique aroma and texture of buckwheat find it worth the wait and cost.

Meanwhile, whether the husk of the buckwheat is removed and how the buckwheat flour is handled affects the color and taste of the noodles. If the husk is not removed when grinding the buckwheat, the noodles come out dark and have the typical buckwheat taste. If the husk isn’t removed and the buckwheat is dried before grinding, the resulting noodles are very dark.

If the husk is removed before grinding, the noodles have no distinct taste and are just easily broken. Also, if the husk is removed but not dried before grinding, the noodles are bluish, but if dried after husk removal, the noodles are white.

The broth is based on meat stock, and many places utilize dongchimi broth. The quality of the meat stock varies; some leave the meaty taste resulting in a rich flavor, while others boil away the meat taste, making it indistinguishable from plain water. Various meats are used for the stock, typically beef, using parts like lean meat, shank, or bones, but occasionally pork or chicken stock is mixed in.

Rarely, following the original method of Pyongyang, pheasant stock is used. The use of dongchimi broth also varies. Some places use only dongchimi broth for the cold noodle soup, some mix it with meat stock to balance the strong meaty taste, and others use a small amount of meat stock to enhance the tangy taste of dongchimi. Some even use meat stock when initially fermenting dongchimi.

Additionally, some add artificial seasonings like monosodium glutamate (MSG). This is solely to remove the strong aftertaste of the meat stock and enhance the umami flavor of the ingredients, completely different from the usage of factory-made stock flavored only with artificial seasonings.

It might seem out of the blue, but it’s really good when paired with soju.