1. Introduction
In the vibrant tapestry of Korean cuisine, certain dishes stand out not just for their flavors, but for the stories they tell and the traditions they represent. One such dish is Jinju Naengmyeon, a cold noodle specialty hailing from the historic city of Jinju. While many might be familiar with the concept of cold noodles, Jinju Naengmyeon offers a unique culinary experience that sets it apart from its counterparts. With roots tracing back to the Joseon Dynasty and a character that embodies the essence of Jinju’s local culture, this dish is more than just a mealβit’s a journey through time and taste. In this post, we’ll delve into the rich history of Jinju Naengmyeon and explore the distinct characteristics that have cemented its place in the hearts of food enthusiasts both in South Korea and beyond.
2. History
Jinju Naengmyeon, once a forgotten dish after the 1960s, was reintroduced to South Korea through a publication from North Korea in 1994 titled “Folk Traditions of Joseon”. The book mentioned that among all cold noodle dishes, Pyongyang Naengmyeon and Jinju Naengmyeon were the most notable. However, the exact preparation and form of the dish were not precisely documented. One can’t dispute the fact that Jeonju Naengmyeon was an upscale dish, rich in high-end ingredients
Up until the 1960s, restaurants like Soojung, Pyeonghwa, and Eunha in Jinju served Jinju Naengmyeon. However, a significant fire that broke out in Jinju’s central market in 1966 marked the end of the dish’s prominence. Since then, restaurants serving Jinju Naengmyeon have become scarce. According to local elders, when they felt hungry before bedtime, they would satiate their hunger with this noodle dish. Traditionally, Jinju Naengmyeon was made by wrapping buckwheat noodles in water infused with beef broth from braised beef. It was then topped with sliced pears, chestnuts, and freshly made tofu pancakes.
By the 1960s, the dish had completely vanished, and even the elderly in the Jinju region had varying memories of it. The current version of Jinju Naengmyeon is more of a modern culinary creation developed through research rather than a restoration of the original. The dish’s resurgence coincided with the growth of local tourism, especially during events like the Jinju Fortress Lantern Festival.
In recent times, chain restaurants have emerged, making it possible to taste Jinju Naengmyeon outside of Jinju, primarily in nearby areas like Busan and Haman. However, as the dish is not a direct continuation of the traditional recipe (more accurately, it’s a restored version), newer establishments often receive better reviews in terms of hygiene and taste compared to those claiming to be the original.
3. Jinju Naengmyeon
Jinju Naengmyeon sets itself apart from other cold noodle dishes with its distinctive broth. While many cold noodle dishes use beef as the primary ingredient for the broth, Jinju Naengmyeon incorporates a diverse range of dried seafood. Ingredients such as depori (a type of small fish), waesaengi (a type of anchovy), anchovies, mussels, clams, and dried octopus are used to create a rich and flavorful broth. One of the traditional methods of preparing the broth involved boiling it with a heated iron for several days. This process was believed to neutralize the distinct fishy odor of the seafood broth. However, this method is seldom used today. Modern preparations often include dried shrimp, red shrimp, dried pollack head, depori, anchovies, clams, and kelp to extract the seafood broth.
It’s not uncommon for some establishments to not prepare the broth correctly, leading to recommendations for diners to generously add mustard and vinegar to enhance the flavor. Another distinguishing feature of Jinju Naengmyeon is the use of mung bean starch to make the noodles, giving them a unique texture and consistency.
As for the toppings, Jinju Naengmyeon is garnished with beef and egg pancakes (yukjeon), and silgochu (shredded red pepper). The practice of using yukjeon as a topping is a regional specialty, and it’s also common to find it sliced atop janchi guksu (banquet noodles). Unlike other cold noodle dishes that might leave one feeling hungry shortly after consumption, a bowl of Jinju Naengmyeon, with its generous toppings, is notably filling and satisfying.