1. What is Bulgogi
Bulgogi, kind of Korean BBQ, is a Korean dish where thinly sliced meat is marinated and then grilled. Alongside bibimbap, naengmyeon, kimchi, and galbi, it is one of the most emblematic dishes of Korean cuisine. Unlike some Korean dishes that might be polarizing due to their strong, distinctive flavors, bulgogi is universally beloved for its rich, savory taste and the smoky flavor imparted by grilling, making it one of the most preferred Korean dishes globally.
There are various regional styles of bulgogi, including grilled and hot pot versions, each representing different areas of Korea. In general, when Koreans mention ‘bulgogi’, it typically refers to beef bulgogi, which is the most iconic form. While there are premium variations of bulgogi named after specific regions, most are based on beef. Pork bulgogi is also widely consumed and is popular, but it is typically distinguished by the specific name ‘pork bulgogi’.
2. Varieties of Bulgogi
1. Seoul Style Bulgogi
The commonly known hot pot-style bulgogi traces its roots back to a popular method of preparation. When referred to simply as ‘bulgogi’ without any qualifiers, it usually implies this style. This method typically employs a distinctively shaped grill pan with a convex center. The edges of the pan are filled with a sweet broth, where the meat can be cooked directly on the dry central area and then dipped into or simmered in the broth. From the 1970s to the 1980s, the common practice didn’t involve intentionally adding broth; instead, the juices from the meat and vegetables cooked on the perforated, convex metal grill naturally filled the surrounding trough. Over time, the design evolved – pans became thicker, and the grooves deeper, leading to the addition of sweet broth from the start, making the dish resemble a stew or hot pot. It’s almost akin to a beef pan stew or “du-ru-chi-gi”.
As a variation of this Seoul-style bulgogi, there’s “bulgogi jeongol” (bulgogi hot pot) and “ttukbaegi bulgogi” (also known as ‘ttukbul’), which use a shallow pot-like grill or pot and deliberately include a large amount of broth to create a stew-like dish. In the Jeolla province, a popular variation is the ‘bulnak jeongol’, which incorporates octopus from the nearby Muan County, adding a unique twist to the bulgogi hot pot. Ttukbaegi bulgogi involves serving the bulgogi with plenty of broth in a ttukbaegi (earthenware pot) and is often served boiling hot. Ttukbul is especially common in university-area restaurants across the country, likely due to its convenience for serving individual portions.
2. Eonyang Bulgogi
Eonyang bulgogi (언양 불고기) is a grilled version without broth, distinct from the traditional marinated bulgogi. Instead of marinating for an extended period, the meat is scored almost to a minced state, seasoned, and then grilled on a double-sided grill over charcoal, flipping frequently until thoroughly cooked. It’s served ready to eat, either picked up directly or spooned onto plates. Some variations involve only seasoning with salt before grilling over charcoal, a style reminiscent of Eonyang bulgogi from the 1960s. This salt-grilled method is also a celebrated specialty of Eonyang.
While Eonyang bulgogi might visually resemble meat dishes like tteokgalbi or neobiani, which are made from kneaded and sticky meat mixtures, it’s quite different. Eonyang bulgogi simply involves bunching up sliced meat, and regular grilling techniques would cause it to fall apart, reverting to ordinary bulgogi. Therefore, to properly grill Eonyang bulgogi, a folding grill is essential.
3. Bonggye Bulgogi
Bonggye bulgogi (봉계 불고기), while also grilled on a grill like Eonyang bulgogi, differs significantly in its preparation and flavor. It offers both seasoned and salt-grilled (original) versions, with the latter considered closer to the authentic Bonggye style. The salt-grilled variant minimizes seasoning to enhance the meat’s natural flavors through direct charcoal grilling. The seasoned version, developed later than the salt-grilled, is lighter in seasoning compared to other regional bulgogi styles, and locals usually recommend the salt-grilled option.
Strictly speaking, there wasn’t originally a specific dish known as ‘Bonggye bulgogi’. Unlike Eonyang bulgogi, which has a distinct process involving mincing the meat, ‘Bonggye bulgogi’ as a term initially referred to a general practice of grilling Korean beef with salt, lacking a unique identity as a distinct dish. In other words, if Bonggye bulgogi were recognized as a standalone dish, it would imply that any salt-grilled beef prepared over direct fire, like during camping, could be termed as such. However, the more recent introduction of a seasoned grilling method has given Bonggye bulgogi its own culinary identity and characteristics.
3. Gwangyang Bulgogi
Gwangyang bulgogi (광양 불고기) is distinct in its preparation, where thinly sliced, wide pieces of meat are seasoned and then grilled using a grill pan over charcoal. Although it may seem similar to Eonyang bulgogi, the method of cutting the meat is different. Unlike Eonyang bulgogi, which is grilled between two sides of a grill, Gwangyang bulgogi is cooked over a charcoal grill, with the meat being flipped as if it were being stir-fried. Presently, Gwangyang-eup is home to numerous restaurants specializing in this particular style of bulgogi, with a dedicated Gwangyang Bulgogi Street established, especially around the Gwangyang Seocheon area.