The article explores the cultural and culinary significance of skate (Hongeo), a type of fish highly regarded in Korean cuisine for its unique fermented varieties. Known for its distinct flavor and aroma, skate is celebrated as a traditional delicacy, often associated with special occasions in Korea. The fermentation process unique to skate, which prevents decomposition and enhances flavor through the conversion of urea to ammonia, sets it apart from other seafood. Despite its challenging odor and taste, skate commands high prices, particularly the true skate from Heuksando Island, considered superior due to its scarcity and flavor profile.
In recent years, overfishing and environmental degradation have severely impacted skate populations, leading to a reliance on imports and causing local fishermen significant economic distress. The article also describes various skate dishes, including the fresh and fermented varieties of skate sashimi, highlighting their preparation, culinary uses, and the cultural nuances surrounding their consumption. With its robust, challenging flavors and unique preparation methods, skate remains a cornerstone of Korean gastronomy, revered for its taste and cultural significance.
1. Hongeo in Korea
The skate, a member of the Rajiformes order, is celebrated in Korea as the epitome of fermented delicacies. Initially a staple enjoyed by commoners alongside the traditional makgeolli, the skate’s unique sweet and savory flavors have elevated its status over time. As its popularity surged, so did its scarcity, propelling prices to astounding figures between 400,000 and 1,300,000 won per fish by the 2010s. Particularly revered is the true skate from the vicinity of Heuksando Island, regarded as a delicacy of a different caliber.
The domestic demand has far outstripped supply, necessitating significant imports from Chile and Argentina, with the majority of skates consumed in Korea now being these imports. Skates reproduce less prolifically than many fish, laying fewer eggs and facing challenges from overfishing of juveniles and environmental degradation, which has led to a critical reduction in their numbers.
While the term “skate” broadly encompasses all species within the Rajiformes order, in Korea, the rarity and distinctiveness of their flavor earn them special recognition, distinguishing them from other varieties. Depending on the region, these fish may go by various names, with distinctions often made based on size; smaller specimens are colloquially known regardless of species, with the boundary being whether the fish, including the skeleton, can be consumed as sashimi.
Skate, true skate, and similar species might superficially resemble flatfishes like flounder or sole, but without fermentation, their flavors are remarkably similar. When prepared as raw fish salad, distinguishing between these species can become virtually impossible, hence local fishers often do not differentiate based on species.
The value of skate varies greatly with size and sex. The highest quality skate caught near Heuksando commands prices that are nearly unthinkable for mere fish, sometimes costing more than esteemed varieties like tuna. As of 2022, Argentinian skate sold in supermarkets for about 12,000 won for 150 grams. At traditional markets, a portion of fermented skate salad that would suffice for two could be purchased for about 10,000 won.
Prices for an average-sized female skate at the Heuksando fisheries auction can soar from 450,000 to 700,000 won, and in cases of scarcity, prices can exceed one million won per fish. The record for the largest skate, a female of about 8 kg, reached an auction price of 1,350,000 won, sparking rumors of its luxurious air-transport.
Today, only select venues such as the Shilla Hotel and exclusive traditional Korean restaurants offer genuine domestic skate, where a single portion can cost between 80,000 and 100,000 won.
Recent years have seen a severe decline in skate populations due to environmental pressures and overfishing, making reproduction increasingly challenging. Although the population plummeted to nearly a single vessel by 1997, it has begun to slowly recover. Nevertheless, the flooding of the market with imported skate in 2019 led to a significant drop in prices, leaving local fishermen in despair.
2. Koreans’ Perspective on Hongeo
In Korea, when one mentions skate, the mind often conjures images of the fermented variety. This particular dish, notorious for its potent odor and challenging flavor profile, is regarded as a culinary hurdle even by many locals.
The fermentation process of skate, as well as other cartilaginous fish such as stingrays and sharks, differs fundamentally from that of bony fish. While bony fish expel urea to regulate their internal osmotic pressure, cartilaginous fish store urea, which then converts to ammonia post-mortem. This chemical transformation allows for fermentation rather than decomposition, a process exploited in traditional dishes like dombaegi. However, this method requires precise control to prevent spoilage and bacterial contamination, highlighting the need for expertise in its preparation.
For those daunted by the robust flavor or high cost of skate, stingrays present a more accessible and palatable alternative. Often referred to as gangaemi or ganjaemi in the western provinces of Chungcheong and Jeolla, stingrays are smaller and more plentiful, making them less expensive and similarly flavored, due to their genetic kinship with skate.
Indeed, it is quite likely that the stingray is the star ingredient in various dishes served at weddings, buffets, or in cold raw fish soups, given its prevalence. The crunchy texture, attributed to its cartilage content, offers a similar sensory experience to skate. Stingray is versatile, commonly prepared steamed, raw, or in mild seasonings, providing a gentler introduction to the flavors typical of unfermented skate, or it may be slightly dried to temper the ammonia scent.
Both dried skate and stingray can appear quite alien, almost as if plucked from a science fiction narrative. Semi-dried versions are typically steamed, transforming into a delicacy, while fully dried forms are grilled and savored as a type of jerky.
It’s important to also acknowledge the dual connotation of “skate” in Korean culture. While primarily referring to the culinary item, the term can sometimes serve as a pejorative label similar to racially charged stereotypes found in other cultures, such as those associating African-Americans with certain foods in the U.S. Such derogatory usage, particularly when directed at individuals from the Jeolla region, should be navigated with sensitivity and awareness of its offensive potential.
3. Korean Hongeo Cuisine
3-1. Hongeo Sashimi (Skate Sashimi)
Skate sashimi, elegantly sliced from freshly caught skate, often finds itself overshadowed by its fermented counterpart. Such is the dominance of the fermented variety that the very mention of “skate sashimi” conjures images of the aged dish, relegating the fresh variety to a niche delicacy often referred to specifically as “fresh skate sashimi.” This designation underscores its plight as a misunderstood and underappreciated gem in culinary circles.
Fresh skate sashimi delights even those wary of its fermented sibling, boasting flavors robust enough to convert skeptics. The dish is a marvelous blend of textures: it is resilient and tender, finishing with a subtly sweet note that resonates well with the Korean palate, which prizes a satisfying chew. While it may seem contradictory, the initially resilient mucous-coated exterior of the skate yields to reveal flesh that disintegrates effortlessly, dissolving in the mouth with silky finesse.
Devoid of the pungent odor that characterizes fermented skate, fresh skate sashimi instead offers a deep, lasting aroma that starkly contrasts with the more subdued flavors of flounders or rockfish. Despite its premium cost, it’s an indulgence that’s highly recommended. Previously, enjoying fresh skate required a pilgrimage to remote locations like Heuksando or Hongdo, but advances in refrigeration now allow gourmets across Korea to savor this delicacy without geographic constraints. However, due to its perishability, it is typically available only via pre-order at specialty restaurants.
For those looking for a simpler option, “ganjaemi sashimi”—sashimi made from young skate—provides a practical alternative. It offers a similar flavor profile, and with its soft, edible bones, it presents more yield and better value for money. Furthermore, its relative abundance keeps prices reasonable, with 500 grams of prepared ganjaemi available for about 15,000 won as of April 2021, delivered chilled and ready to slice.
Among the exclusive delights of fresh skate sashimi is the liver, a succulent morsel celebrated for its creamy texture and rich, nutty flavor, reminiscent of ratfish liver. While considered a delicacy, it must be consumed swiftly as it spoils rapidly and does not lend itself to fermentation, usually enjoyed either freshly sliced or in sumptuous skate liver soup.
As with all sashimi, freshness is paramount. Over time, even fresh skate sashimi may begin to emit a mild aroma reminiscent of its fermented counterpart due to the inherent urea in the skate, although it is far less intense. If neglected, instead of fermenting, the skate simply spoils, losing its delicate charm and gourmet appeal.
3-2. Fermented Hongeo Sashimi (Fermented skate sashimi)
Fermented skate sashimi is often the first dish that comes to mind when one thinks of skate, renowned not only for its distinctive flavor but also for its notoriously powerful odor. This dish is an acquired taste, with an aroma so potent that it can deter the uninitiated. Yet, for the connoisseurs of this culinary challenge, the skate’s unique and addictive taste creates a devoted following, who specifically seek out the most thoroughly fermented pieces at local markets.
Ranked as having the second most intense odor in the world’s culinary scene, only surpassed by surströmming, fermented skate emits a smell comparable to an unkempt public restroom. The commercially packaged varieties sold in department stores are milder, but a true encounter with this dish at a fish market might feel like an onslaught of ammonia, overwhelming the senses to the extent of causing a sensation akin to chemical burns. Such is the strength of its alkalinity that it can provoke a lingering, invasive scent, reminiscent of the pungency one would expect from a neglected men’s bathroom.
Due to its high alkalinity, indulging in too much fermented skate without accompaniments can neutralize stomach acid, leading to indigestion. This is why it is traditionally enjoyed with makgeolli, an acidic Korean rice wine that aids digestion and balances the skate’s intense properties. However, it is not recommended for those with sensitive stomachs, and combining it with other slow-digesting foods might exacerbate discomfort.
The origins of this fermentation process are believed to be accidental. One legend suggests that skate naturally fermented during extended storage aboard ships amidst rough seas from Heuksando, with its unique flavor eventually becoming cherished. Another tale from the Goryeo era recounts islanders who, fleeing pirate raids, packed their precious skate in straw or jars. Upon reaching the mainland, they discovered it had fermented during their journey. Rather than discarding this unintended delicacy, they embraced its unique flavor, a practice that has continued to this day.
Although the overpowering smell of fermented skate can be somewhat mitigated by treating it with vinegar, which neutralizes its alkalinity, the fundamental challenge of its strong odor, now mixed with the tang of vinegar, remains daunting. Even the use of spices and edible alcohol struggles to completely remove its pervasive scent.
True aficionados of fermented skate may choose to consume it in its purest form, unadorned or perhaps dipped in a fiery chili paste, embracing the full intensity of its flavor. Restaurants typically serve it with a variety of condiments including spicy chili paste enhanced with wasabi, or a blend of chili powder, salt, and sesame oil, offering a range of flavors to complement the skate’s robustness.
For skate that is fresh but not fermented, which lacks distinctive taste or aroma, the challenge remains significant. Such skate is often accompanied by robust condiments or paired with kimchi to enhance its palatability.
It is also worth noting that smoking immediately after consuming fermented skate is ill-advised, as the ammonia residue in the mouth can dramatically increase the absorption of nicotine, intensifying its effects.
Despite the tales of skate’s odor causing nosebleeds, this is largely an embellishment of its actual impact. However, the intense experience can indeed be quite overwhelming.
In terms of pairing with beverages, the sharp, penetrating taste of skate finds a mellow counterpart in makgeolli, rather than soju. This pairing, affectionately known as “hong-tak,” harmonizes the robust flavors of the skate with the soft, soothing qualities of the milky rice wine.
3-3. Steamed Hongeo
In the southern coastal regions of Jeollanam-do, particularly in the major skate-producing areas like Heuksando, Mokpo, and Shinan County, skate is an essential component of any celebration. It is so integral to local feasts that residents often remark, “A celebration without skate is hardly a feast at all.” Skate thus finds its way into virtually every significant communal meal, be it a festival or a jubilant gathering.
Similar to the indispensable presence of ‘dombaegi’ at gatherings and funerals in Yeongcheon and Gyeongju, skate features prominently at such events in Jeollanam-do, although it is typically less fermented than the versions found in casual dining.
Among various skate preparations, steamed skate is particularly notorious for its tendency to adhere to the roof of the mouth, especially when served warm. This phenomenon is due to the dispersion of the fish’s alkaline substances, which become more active in warmth. The nature of cartilaginous fish like skate ensures that their bones are soft, becoming even more tender through the steaming process. This softness allows for the consumption of the bones along with the flesh, which, while delectable, are known to be the most potent part of the fish.
3-4. Hongeo Samhap
Hongeo Samhap is widely celebrated as the quintessential skate dish, characterized by its distinctive ensemble of fermented skate and boiled pork enveloped in kimchi. When this dish is savored alongside makgeolli, a traditional Korean rice wine, it earns the endearing moniker “Hongtak Samhap.” Historically in Jeolla Province’s coastal areas, pork was a rare and costly ingredient compared to the more accessible skate. Today, the tables have turned: advancements in domestic pork production and increased imports have made pork more affordable, while skate has ascended to a pricier delicacy.
The term “samhap” specifically refers to this trio of boiled pork, skate sashimi, and kimchi. The dish’s origins trace back to Gwangju Metropolitan City, which is why it is also fondly referred to as “Gwangju Samhap.”
Initially conceived as a way to economize on costly pork by pairing it with skate and kimchi, the evolution of Korea’s pork industry and the influx of imports have flipped the script, making skate the luxury element of the dish.
While skate, or “hongeo,” commonly conjures images of samhap, not all aficionados are fans of the dish. Some critics argue that the potent flavors of particularly aged kimchi can overpower the subtle nuances of the skate’s aroma, diminishing its distinct presence.
Indeed, in skate’s native locales like Yeongsando or Heuksando, or at esteemed skate eateries, samhap and pure sashimi are often presented separately. This separation is crucial as some lower-quality venues targeting tourists might resort to samhap to conceal subpar or improperly fermented skate. Diners are thus advised to proceed with caution.
Despite these complexities, samhap commands a dedicated fanbase among hardcore skate enthusiasts who cherish its unique taste profile, which is distinct from enjoying pure, unadulterated skate.
3-5. Hongeo-muchim
Hongeo-muchim is a delightful Korean culinary creation featuring seasoned skate, often served as an appetizing side dish. In this vibrant medley, fresh skate is artfully combined with crisp vegetables such as water parsley, radish strips, and cucumber, all of which lend a refreshing crunch. The mixture is then tossed in a sweet and tangy gochujang-based dressing, creating a harmony of flavors. Notably, skate’s soft bones are included in the slicing, contributing an extra dimension of texture that is particularly prized for its crunch. Due to the escalating cost of skate, however, stingray has become a popular alternative in the preparation of this dish.
For aficionados of a more robust flavor, fermented skate is substituted for fresh, enhancing the dish’s depth. Soaking the skate in makgeolli prior to mixing softens the flesh and bones, further enriching the texture and making each bite more succulent.
In the Seoul metropolitan region, the dish takes on a unique twist in the form of “hwe naengmyeon.” This dish features skate muchim atop a bed of Hamhung-style cold noodles mixed with a spicy sauce and radishes, although it is interesting to note that water parsley, commonly found in skate muchim, is frequently omitted.
Meanwhile, on the coastal fringes of Gangwon Province, asking for “hwe naengmyeon” might yield a completely different experience with a dish topped with seasoned pollack (hwangtae) muchim.
For those curious about the distinctive taste of fermented skate, hongeo-muchim is often touted as an ideal introduction. It offers a gentler entry point into the unique and potent flavors that define this traditional delicacy, making it a favored choice among culinary explorers eager to expand their palates.
3-6. Hongeo-jeon and fried hongeo
Hongeo-jeon and fried hongeo(hongeo-twigim) are traditional Korean culinary offerings that incorporate fermented skate into pancakes and fried dishes. At the heart of their preparation lies the culinary technique of cooking the skate, seemingly transforming these dishes into familiar fish pancakes or fritters. When served hot from the pan, these dishes delight with their crispy batter and the rich, tender texture of the fish within.
However, the inclusion of batter brings with it an unexpected complication: it encapsulates the skate’s ammonia-laden flesh, turning it into a veritable aroma bomb. One might initially believe that the cooking process would neutralize the ammonia, but this hope quickly dissipates upon tasting. Unlike the immediately apparent aroma of fermented skate sashimi, hongeo-jeon and hongeo-twigim stealthily conceal their pungent scent until the very moment you take a bite, releasing an overwhelming burst of ammonia. This isn’t merely an unpleasant surprise but a visceral, almost painful heat explosion that can shock the senses and potentially cause the mouth’s inner lining to feel scalded.
To sidestep this intense gastronomic ordeal, it is advisable to consume these dishes in small, carefully taken bites rather than in large mouthfuls. This method allows one to gradually acclimate to the sudden release of heat, providing a clearer understanding of the dramatic sensory release involved. Eating them in larger bites, as one might with less potent pancakes or fritters, could lead to an involuntary need to expel the food.
On the flip side, this characteristic can be a boon for those who savor the robust, well-aged flavor of fermented skate but find their dish lacking in pungency. By preparing the skate in the form of a jeon or twigim, one can enhance and fully experience its unique ammonia aroma, turning the cooking process into an opportunity to deepen the flavor profile.
3-7. Top 3 Challenging Skate Dishes to Eat
Delving into the realm of traditional Korean cuisine reveals a trio of skate dishes that are notorious for their challenging flavors and potent aromas, pushing the boundaries of even the most adventurous palates.
Hongeo Aetguk (Skate Liver Soup) claims the third spot in the hierarchy of culinary challenges. This robust soup is made by boiling skate innards or liver with barley leaves or water parsley, resulting in a dish whose pungency surpasses even that of fermented skate sashimi. The aroma can evoke the smell of poorly cooked shellfish, amplified two hundredfold. Interestingly, while some diners manage skate sashimi, they find hongeo aetguk overpowering, and vice versa, indicating a peculiar variability in taste preferences.
Hongeo Moolko (Skate Nose) secures the second position in terms of culinary trials. Esteemed by enthusiasts, who often describe the gill as the ultimate delicacy followed by the innards and then the wings and tail, it offers a unique challenge. The gill’s flavor is so potent that it can cause discomfort to the roof of the mouth. An episode of “2 Days & 1 Nights” featured celebrities grappling with its intensity, revealing the gill’s formidable nature as they struggled to manage its overpowering essence.
Hongeo Guseomchi (Skate Gill Filaments) stands as the pinnacle of skate cuisine challenges, even more daunting than the gill itself. These filaments are savored only by the most dedicated connoisseurs, primarily enjoyed fresh to capture their sharp, biting flavor. The anatomical location and structure of the gills make them prone to rapid spoilage due to bacteria and parasites, rendering them almost impossible to ferment properly. In local tradition, they are consumed raw, and the intense, distinctive flavor of these filaments is so renowned that it can be likened to some of the world’s most challenging foods, such as surströmming. Only the true aficionados dare to enjoy this delicacy, often regarded as even more extreme than the skate’s nose.
Each of these dishes represents a formidable peak in the landscape of Korean culinary challenges, revered and sometimes feared, for their intense and complex flavors. They offer a gastronomic adventure that is certainly not for the faint of heart, reserved for those who dare to explore the deep ends of traditional flavors.