Hamheung Naengmyeon: The Cold Noodle Dish from North Korea

1. Introduction

In the diverse world of Korean cuisine, “함흥냉면 (Hamheung Naengmyeon)” holds a special place, revered not just for its delightful taste but also for its deep-rooted cultural significance. Originating from Hamheung, North Korea, this cold noodle dish, with its thin, chewy noodles made from sweet potato starch, offers a refreshing culinary experience, especially cherished during the warm summer months.

However, in South Korea, when people mention “Hamheung Naengmyeon,” they are typically referring to “회 냉면 (Hoe Naengmyeon),” a variant that beautifully marries the cold noodles with slices of raw fish, making it a favorite in regions blessed with bountiful seafood. Another noteworthy mention is “농마 국수 (Nongma Guksu),” characterized by its clear, invigorating broth often derived from radish water kimchi, offering a meal that’s both light and deeply satisfying.

Significantly, 함흥냉면 is often regarded alongside “진주냉면 (Jinju Naengmyeon)” and “평양냉면 (Pyongyang Naengmyeon)” as one of the three great cold noodle dishes of Korea, a testament to its esteemed position in the nation’s culinary heritage. Together, these dishes are more than mere food; they encapsulate Korea’s rich history, its regional diversities, and the shared memories of its people.

2. History

The history of Hamheung Naengmyeon dates back to the era of Japanese colonial rule in Korea. During the early years of this period, the region of Hamheung saw the development of an industry that processed potatoes produced in the Kaema Plateau into potato starch. This led to the evolution of noodle dishes made from potatoes. Utilizing these noodles, dishes like 회 국수 (Hoe Guksu) and 농마국수 (Nongma Guksu) emerged.

The Korean War brought about significant changes. As the war led to the evacuation of Heungnam, many refugees from Hamheung settled in cities like Seoul and Busan, with a significant number also choosing the coastal city of Sokcho in Gangwon Province, which was closer to their hometown. These refugees opened restaurants selling their hometown dishes, often incorporating the name ‘Hamheung’ into their establishment’s name. It was during this time that “Hoe Guksu” became widely recognized as “Naengmyeon”. The restaurant ‘Hamheung Naengmyeon Ok’ (함흥 냉면 옥) in Sokcho was among the first to serve Hoe Guksu topped with flatfish. However, the first establishment to use the name “Hamheung Naengmyeon” in its dish was ‘Ojang-dong Hamheung Zeap’ (오장동흥남집), which opened in Ojang-dong, Seoul, in 1953.

An interesting twist in the tale is that, historically, potatoes were not abundant in South Korea. As a result, instead of potato starch, sweet potato starch was used. This adaptation became the standard method for making Hamheung Naengmyeon, a tradition that continues to this day.

3. Hamheung Bibim/Hoe Naengmyeon

Hamheung Bibim Naengmyeon, often referred to as Bibim Naengmyeon or Hoe Naengmyeon, is a distinctive dish characterized by its minimal or absent broth. As previously mentioned, this dish, originally called “회국수 (Hoe Guksu)” in Hamheung, North Korea, has been localized to suit the ingredients available in South Korea. A unique feature of Hamheung Hoe Naengmyeon is the topping of seasoned pollack strips, a development introduced by “Hamheung Naengmyeon Ok” in the 1980s. Originally, seasoned flatfish was used as a topping, but due to a decrease in catch and supply issues, seasoned pollack became the alternative. It’s worth noting that the raw fish (Heo) used in Hoe Naengmyeon is typically aged or fermented raw fish. The traditional method from North Korea involves using skate or stingray. If the dish is served without the raw fish topping and instead with meat, it is referred to as Bibim Naengmyeon.

As Hamheung Naengmyeon made its way to South Korea, its flavor profile underwent a transformation, becoming spicier. Some traditional Hamheung Naengmyeon restaurants in Seoul’s Ojang-dong and Gangwon Province’s Sokcho serve the dish with milder seasoning and a hint of broth. In contrast, Hamgyeong Naengmyeon restaurants in areas like Gangnam and Pangyo offer a smoother flavor.

A hallmark of Hamheung Naengmyeon is its thin and chewy noodles. For those unfamiliar with Korean cuisine, the texture of these noodles might feel akin to chewing rubber. Additionally, as the dish has evolved to have a stronger spicy kick, some might find it quite fiery. Like other cold noodle dishes, Hamheung Naengmyeon pairs wonderfully with boiled pork slices (pyeonyuk or suyuk) and is also a great accompaniment to soju.

4. Hamheung Mul Naengmyeon (Nongma Guksu)

Nongma Guksu, also known as Hamheung Mul Naengmyeon, is a type of cold noodle dish that uses the same noodles as Hamheung Bibim or Hoe Naengmyeon but is served with a generous amount of broth. The broth is typically made by boiling meats such as beef, pork, or chicken. As for toppings, seasoned meat, cucumber, kimchi, and eggs are commonly used. In South Korea, Nongma Guksu is often compared to Pyongyang Naengmyeon, another renowned cold noodle dish.

In North Korea, the original Nongma Guksu is considered a premium dish, held in high esteem. However, in South Korea, the perception of Hamheung Mul Naengmyeon is relatively modest. When compared to Pyongyang Naengmyeon, Hamheung Mul Naengmyeon is often seen as a more affordable cold noodle option. For instance, it’s not uncommon to find it served as a light dessert after a meal at a Korean BBQ restaurant or available at budget-friendly eateries. Due to this, when South Koreans hear “Hamheung Naengmyeon,” they often think of Hamheung Hoe Naengmyeon, which is the spicy, mixed version with raw fish.