Exploring Traditional Korean Soju: A Guide to Heritage Spirits

1. What is Traditional Soju

Traditional soju is a distilled spirit made in Korea using a traditional method that involves distilling fermented grains, cheongju (clear rice wine), yakju, or takju (cloudy rice wine). It is considered a premium liquor, differing significantly from diluted soju in terms of production process, taste, and quality. Here’s an overview:

1. Traditional vs. Diluted Soju: Originally, the term “soju” (燒酒) referred to distilled soju. However, with the Grain Management Act in the 1960s and 1970s, which restricted the sale of traditional liquor due to its high rice consumption, cheaper diluted soju became popularized. Consequently, the term “soju” commonly refers to diluted soju now, and when referring to traditional soju, it’s often specifically called “distilled soju” or “traditional soju.”
2. Distillation Process: Distilled soju is made through single distillation, preserving the original flavors and aromas of the base liquor without the addition of sweeteners. This process results in a liquor with rich, deep fragrances and a subtle, savory taste of rice, ensuring a smooth aftertaste and less likelihood of a hangover.
3. Difference in Taste: The contrast between distilled soju and diluted soju is stark. Diluted soju is made by diluting industrial alcohol obtained through continuous distillation, resulting in a colorless, tasteless spirit to which sweeteners are added. The distinct flavors and quality of distilled soju are easily noticeable, even to those not particularly sensitive to taste differences.
4. Price Point: One downside of distilled soju is its significantly higher price compared to diluted soju. A standard bottle of distilled soju can cost at least ten times more than regular diluted soju, with prices for premium products reaching up to thirty times higher.

This distinction between distilled and diluted soju highlights the depth and variety within Korean soju culture, where both types have their unique place and appeal. Distilled soju, with its rich heritage and flavor, represents the traditional art of Korean liquor making.

2. Varieties of Traditional Soju

Distilled soju in Korea can be broadly categorized into two types: regular distilled soju (precisely called Sunkok Soju) and Yaksoju, which involves adding various ingredients to Sunkok Soju. Here’s a closer look:

1. Sunkok Soju: This is the standard form of distilled soju and is further classified based on the primary grain used in its production. Common varieties include rice soju (Ssal Soju), barley soju (Bori Soju), and sorghum soju (Susu Soju). Among these, rice soju is the most common type.
2. Yaksoju: This variety involves adding additional ingredients, such as medicinal herbs or other flavorings, to Sunkok Soju, creating a distinct and often health-oriented drink.

These classifications highlight the diversity within the distilled soju category, offering a range of flavors and ingredients that cater to different preferences. The variations in distilled soju reflect the rich and complex history of Korean traditional liquor making.

2-1. Sunkok Soju

Sunkok Soju refers to a type of soju that is made without any additional flavoring or aromatic ingredients, other than water, nuruk (a traditional Korean fermentation starter), and grains. This term is commonly used when classifying types of distilled soju, and such soju is typically referred to simply as soju or distilled soju.

1. Production Process: Soju undergoes a distillation process, which allows for a wider variety of raw materials compared to cheongju (clear rice wine). The diversity of grains used as the base for fermentation leads to different types of soju.
2. Varieties Based on Grains: Depending on the grain used, there are various types of soju like rice soju (Ssal Soju), barley soju (Bori Soju), and sweet potato soju (Goguma Soju).
3. Cultural Heritage Status: Due to its traditional nature, some types of distilled soju in South Korea have been designated as cultural heritage items. These traditional sojus are often revered for their historical significance and traditional brewing methods.

Sunkok Soju, with its focus on traditional ingredients and methods, plays an important role in preserving the cultural heritage and history of Korean alcoholic beverages.

The traditional Korean liquors designated as cultural heritage by the South Korean government have been marked with underlining and italics.

• Rice Soju
  • Samhae Soju (Seoul): Distilled from Samhaeju. Previously, silver was used in the distillation pots. The lineup includes the original Samhae Soju with 71.2% alcohol, highly regarded as one of Korea’s finest, and variations like Samhaepo, Samhaecheong, Samhaegyul, and Samhaejangcheon, featuring different ingredients like grapes and yuzu.
  • Andong Soju (Andong City): Known for its distinct nuruk (fermentation starter) aroma.
    • Myeongin Andong Soju: Created by Master Park Jaeseo (Traditional Food Master No.6), it offers a modernized taste with reduced roughness while preserving the traditional aroma.
    • Minsookju Andong Soju: Continued by Master Kim Yeonbak (Traditional Food Master No.20-Ga) after the death of Master Jo Okhwa (Traditional Food Master No.20), maintaining the traditional characteristics with a distinct nuruk aroma and a somewhat rough taste.
  • Namhansanseong Soju (Gwangju City, Gyeonggi): Originally only sold at high proof but now also available in lower alcohol content.
  • Tokki Soju (Chungju City): Started in New York in 2016 and moved to Chungju, Chungcheongbuk-do in 2020. Available in 23% (White Label) and 40% (Black Label) alcohol content, it’s known for its premium glutinous rice ingredient.
  • Mowol Ro, Mowol In (Wonju City): Produced by Mowol, with Mowol In winning the Presidential Award at the 2020 Korean Alcohol Product Evaluation.
  • Mir (Yongin City): Winner of the Presidential Award at the 2018 Korean Alcohol Product Evaluation.
  • Ido (Cheongju City): Won the Grand Prize at the 2016 Korean Alcohol Product Evaluation. Uniquely made with organic rice.
  • Pungjeongsagye Dong (Cheongju City): Produced by Hwayang, won the Best Distilled Soju award at the 2016 evaluation.
  • Hwabaek, Fire Soju (Seocheon County): A new product from Hansan Sogokju Brewery, sold through crowdfunding and then via Naver Storefarm. Fire Soju has 41% alcohol, while Hwabaek has a reduced strength of 25%.
  • Won Soju (Wonju City): Launched by singer Park Jaebeom in 2022.
  • Juhyang (Chungju City): Aged in homemade no-glaze earthenware pots.
  • Cheonbihyang Hwaju (Pyeongtaek City): Distilled from Oyangju.
  • Wolgohe, Jeoksongja (Hamyang County): Distilled from Oyangju, Wolgohe is single-distilled to 42%, while Jeoksongja is double-distilled to 53% and 72%. Jeoksongja 72 is slightly stronger than Samhaeguiju, making it the highest-proof traditional soju available as of November 2023.
• Barley Soju (보리소주)
  • Okroju (Ansan City): A barley soju variety from Ansan.
  • Byeongyeong Soju (Gangjin County): Produced in Gangjin, known for its barley base.
  • Hwanggeum Bori Soju (Hongseong County): A golden barley soju from Hongseong.
  • Tok Hanjan Soju (Yeonggwang County): A unique barley soju from Yeonggwang.
  • Yangjo Hakdang ‘Ae’ (Gwangmyeong City): A barley-based soju crafted by Yangjo Hakdang.
• Sorghum Soju (수수소주)
  • Moonbae Soju (Pyongyang City): Produced by Moonbaeju Brewery, this soju is known for its pear aroma and has a 40% alcohol content.
• Millet Soju (좁쌀소주)
  • Gosori Soju (Jeju City): A millet-based soju from Jeju.
• Sweet Potato Soju (고구마소주)
  • Ryeo (Yeoju City): Produced by Kooksoondang, available in two versions: a distilled soju made from a mix of sweet potatoes and rice, and a version made solely from sweet potatoes.
  • Baekro (Daegu Metropolitan City): A 41% alcohol sweet potato soju by Geumbokju, priced at 25,800 KRW at E-Mart.
• Wheat Soju (밀소주)
  • Jinmaek Soju (Andong City): A wheat-based soju from Andong.

2-2. YakSoju

Yaksoju refers to a type of traditional distilled soju in which various medicinal herbs and other ingredients are added. Here’s a summary of some representative types of Yaksoju and we designated as cultural heritage by the South Korean government have been marked with underlining and italics.:

1. Gamhongro (Paju City): Known as one of the three great liquors of the Joseon era, Gamhongro is a traditional Korean medicinal soju. “Gam” indicates sweetness, “Hong” signifies red color, and “Ro” means dew, referring to distilled liquor. It is crafted by Master Lee Ki-Sook, recognized as Traditional Food Master No. 43.
2. Jukryeokgo (Jeongeup City): This medicinal soju incorporates bamboo sap. Originally a local liquor produced widely in the region, its production almost ceased around the time of the Japanese occupation. Fortunately, Master Song Myeong-Seop, holding the secret recipe from his great-grandfather, restarted its production in 2000. It’s designated as Korean Food Grand Master No. 48 and Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollabuk-do No. 6-3.
3. Chuseongju (Damyang County): A medicinal soju produced in Chuseong village, Damyang County, Jeollanam-do. It is made by Master Yang Dae-Soo, Korean Food Grand Master No. 22.
4. Hongju (Jindo County): A specialty of Jindo County, Jeollanam-do, Hongju is one of Jindo’s “Three Treasures and Three Joys.” It’s a traditional medicinal soju colored and flavored with gardenia seeds. It’s also designated as Korean Geographical Indication No. 26 and Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollanam-do No. 26.
5. Iganggo (Jeonju City): A medicinal soju made with pear and ginger, and contains honey, categorizing it as a liqueur as well. A specialty of Jeonju City, it was originally produced by the family of Master Jo Jeong-Hyeong (Korean Food Grand Master No. 9). The tradition was revived by Master Jo 70 years after it was discontinued during the Japanese occupation. It’s designated as Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollabuk-do No. 6-2 and Korean Food Grand Master No. 9.

These Yaksoju varieties highlight the rich heritage and diversity of traditional Korean distilled spirits, where unique local ingredients and centuries-old recipes create distinctive flavors deeply rooted in Korean culture and history.

2-3. Nuruk-Free Soju

In the realm of distilled soju, there are many products that do not use nuruk (a traditional Korean fermentation starter), yet they often have higher sales and greater recognition. Unlike the legal distinction in Korean liquor tax law between sake (which doesn’t use nuruk and is classified as cheongju) and cheongju (which uses nuruk and is classified as yakju), there’s no such legal distinction for distilled soju. These sojus are commonly found in Korean BBQ restaurants and other traditional dining venues. Here’s an overview of some notable brands:

1. Ilpum Jinro (Icheon City): Produced by Hite Jinro. It uses Ipguk (a type of yeast) and undergoes vacuum distillation.
2. Andong Soju Ilpum (Andong City): Manufactured by Jinro Fermentation, it uses Joje-jongguk (a type of fermentation starter).
3. Oak Zen, Jewang, Andong Soju (Daegu Metropolitan City): Produced by Geumbokju. These varieties use Ipguk inoculated with black mold and also undergo vacuum distillation. Oak Zen undergoes an additional aging process in oak barrels, giving it a whiskey-like flavor and aroma. For those seeking the intrinsic taste and aroma of rice, other products may be more suitable.
4. Hwayo (Yeoju City): Made by Gwangjuyo, it stands out with an alcohol content of 41%, offering a more refined taste.

These brands represent the modern adaptation of traditional Korean soju-making techniques, combining innovation with heritage. While they may not use nuruk, they still maintain the essence of distilled soju, offering diverse flavors and experiences.

3. The Best Ways to Enjoy Traditional Soju

The commonly encountered diluted soju typically exhibits a strong alcohol aroma and can taste bitter when served at room temperature. Therefore, it’s usually stored cold to suppress the harshness. On the other hand, most distilled spirits, regardless of type or origin, are enjoyed at room temperature. This is because chilling them can diminish the flavors and aromas inherent in the ingredients. Classic examples are whiskey and cognac, which are not typically refrigerated, as doing so can lead to a loss of their nuanced flavors and earn disapproval from connoisseurs.

In contrast to diluted soju, traditional distilled soju retains the flavors of its raw materials, and it’s generally best served at room temperature. Especially for high-proof spirits, this practice enhances the drink’s character.

The small soju glasses commonly used are actually designed for quickly consuming diluted soju, which tends to have an unpleasant smell. These glasses are not ideal for enjoying high-quality distilled spirits. For a better experience, glasses used for whiskey, such as on-the-rocks or nosing glasses (like Glencairn glasses), are recommended. These allow the drinker to fully appreciate the aroma and taste.

As for pairings, distilled soju complements different foods than diluted soju. Mild-flavored fish dishes or pancakes (Korean jeon) often go well with it. Simple tofu, either plain or lightly fried in sesame oil, makes an excellent accompaniment. Lightly seasoned watercress can also be a great match, offering a clean, delicate balance to the spirit. Unlike diluted soju, which pairs well with oily or spicy foods (e.g., tteokbokki), distilled soju tends to complement softer, more subtle flavors.

Adding water to distilled soju can be enjoyable, similar to how some people add ice to whiskey. However, heating such high-proof spirits can intensify the alcohol aroma, making them difficult to consume. While certain types of French brandy like Armagnac and Cognac are enhanced by gentle warming, this isn’t common practice for whiskey or other distilled spirits. If a warm alcoholic beverage is desired, it’s better to opt for cheongju (a type of Korean rice wine) or mix the spirit with hot water.