1. What is Budae Jjigae
Budae Jjigae, commonly known as “Army Stew” or “Korean Army (Base) Stew,” is a rich and savory stew made primarily with Western ingredients like processed ham, sausages, bacon, ground meat, and baked beans, simmered in a spicy kimchi-based broth. Despite its Western ingredients, this dish has become a staple in both Korean and international cuisine, owing to the harmonious blend of the oily and savory flavors from the meats with the distinct taste of kimchi. It’s also informally referred to as “Sausage Mixed Stew” or “Ham Mixed Stew” due to its key ingredients.
Globally, Budae Jjigae is recognized phonetically as “Budaejjigae” and is often listed on English menus as “(Spicy) Sausage Stew.” Although Budae Jjigae includes many foreign-origin ingredients, it is distinctly Korean, much like how modern fried chicken, originally from the USA, has been uniquely adapted into Korean variations like spicy or soy sauce chicken. From a Western perspective, the cooking and eating styles of Budae Jjigae feel exotic yet distinctly Korean. This dish, a fusion of various international ingredients forming a spicy Korean stew, symbolizes Korea’s turbulent modern history and stands as a prime example of the country’s first East-West culinary fusion.
Regarding the noodle options in Budae Jjigae, some restaurants offer only instant noodle additions instead of glass noodles (dangmyeon). This is simply because glass noodles require pre-soaking in water, whereas instant noodles can be added directly without prior preparation.
However, it’s important to note that Budae Jjigae, with its high sodium content from ingredients like Spam, sausages, and kimchi, can be quite unhealthy if consumed frequently. While it does contain some vegetables, tofu, and rice cakes, these healthier additions are overshadowed by the dish’s overall high sodium levels. To reduce sodium intake, it’s advisable to consume less of the broth.
2. Description of Taste of Budae Jjigae
Budae Jjigae, a popular Korean stew, ingeniously combines ingredients that might otherwise seem overwhelming to the Korean palate. The stew features Spam and factory-made sausages, which are typically too salty, oily, or tough on their own. However, when simmered in a rich, spicy, and sour kimchi broth, the excessive oiliness and saltiness of Spam and the strong ham scent of sausages are mitigated. The meats’ flavors are balanced, while their oiliness and saltiness enhance the broth’s body and seasoning. The spicy broth also softens the meat, reducing its greasiness and distinctive pork smell, making it less tiresome to consume in larger quantities.
Kimchi plays a dual role, tempering the potential heaviness of the meats and vice versa, creating a harmonious dish. Baked beans add a sweet and sour element to the stew, balancing the salty and spicy flavors while enriching the overall taste profile. This complex interplay of flavors is so well-regarded that even Spam’s official YouTube account offers a recipe for Budae Jjigae, showcasing the dish as a pinnacle of Korea’s multifaceted flavor pursuits.
Interestingly, using high-quality ingredients can sometimes detract from the dish’s authentic taste. This is because the robust flavors of premium sausages or ham can overpower and unbalance the harmonious blend that cheaper ingredients provide. Budae Jjigae’s flavor primarily comes from the potent seasonings of its main components, which are typically army-supplied and heavy on preservatives, thus having a strong taste but weaker natural flavors. This is why using less seasoned luncheon meat can make the dish bland. Some health-conscious versions replace Spam with just sausages, but this often results in a lackluster taste, especially if the kimchi quantity is also reduced.
The stew is not only about the broth but also its hearty solid ingredients, which are satisfying enough on their own. To enhance the experience, additions like ramen noodles, glass noodles, baked beans, bacon, and melted cheese are used to elevate the broth’s flavor, encouraging the consumption of both the solids and the liquid. Some variations even focus solely on the solids, creating a dish called “Budae Bokkeum” (Stir-fried Army Stew).
3. Varieties of Budae Jjigae
3-1. Uijeongbu Budae Jjigae
In Uijeongbu and Dongducheon, a few restaurants still offer “Budae Bokkeum,” the precursor to the well-known Budae Jjigae (Army Stew). Local elders consistently recount that Budae Bokkeum came first, a fact corroborated not just by statements from restaurant owner Huh Ki-Sook but also by other elderly residents. Initially, Budae Bokkeum, a stir-fried dish with little broth, dominated, later evolving into the more soup-like Budae Jjigae.
Uijeongbu gained fame for spreading the name “Budae Jjigae” due to two main reasons. Firstly, during a period when northern Seoul was underdeveloped and the city’s focus lay in areas like Jongno and Myeongdong, Uijeongbu emerged as an easily accessible and bustling hub. Its prominence is even referenced in Kim Sung-mo’s “Lucky Gang,” emphasizing the area’s significance. Secondly, the presence of the 306th Reserve Battalion in Uijeongbu meant that many young men and their families from across the country congregated here, often encountering Budae Jjigae for the first time.
Uijeongbu residents sometimes critique subpar versions of Budae Jjigae, asserting that simply adding more ingredients to kimchi stew doesn’t make it Budae Jjigae. While it’s a type of mixed stew, it’s distinct from a regular kimchi stew loaded with ingredients.
A key landmark in Uijeongbu is the original Budae Jjigae restaurant, “Odeng Sikdang.” Here, the stew’s recipe has been passed down from grandmother to grandson. According to her testimony, the first version of Budae Jjigae was more of a sauté without much broth, which gradually evolved into its current form. Uijeongbu celebrates this culinary heritage by holding an annual Budae Jjigae Festival and designating a “Budae Jjigae Street,” with “Odeng Sikdang” being the most popular choice among other restaurants. Despite the lack of active promotion, patrons often queue up for “Odeng Sikdang,” bypassing other restaurants with more aggressive marketing.
It’s important to note that there are two restaurants named “Odeng Sikdang” in the area, so be cautious of imitations. The original “Odeng Sikdang,” featured in the comic “Sikgaek” and the show “2 Days & 1 Night” started its business in 1960. After gaining fame, the restaurant expanded its premises. Meanwhile, a neighboring restaurant, previously known as “Chingu-ne Jip” and operated by Jeong Soon-ok, started using the same name “Odeng Sikdang” in 2012, leading to a legal battle. Ultimately, Huh Ki-Sook’s “Odeng Sikdang” won the lawsuit.
The menu at “Odeng Sikdang” focuses on simplicity, avoiding miscellaneous ingredients like rice cakes or canned beans and sticking to essential components like ham, kimchi, green onions, minced meat, and glass noodles. While “Odeng Sikdang” enjoys high recognition, personal tastes vary, and some might prefer other restaurants. The tastes of customers and even the restaurant itself have evolved, reflecting changes in culinary preferences.
Despite the presence of many Budae Jjigae restaurants on the street, some have closed or changed their business type, indicating a disparity in quality even among neighboring establishments. While “Odeng Sikdang” is not the sole standard, entering any random restaurant could result in a disappointing experience. Exploring areas near administrative centers like the Gyeonggi Provincial Government North Office or Uijeongbu City Hall might offer better options. The Budae Jjigae alley was also once adjacent to the old Yangju County Office, hinting at its historical significance.
3-2. Songtan Budae Jjigae
In Songtan-style Budae Jjigae, a distinctive feature is its rich flavor, primarily derived from beef bone broth and cheese, a contrast to the cleaner kimchi-based taste of Uijeongbu-style Budae Jjigae. Cheese, often dismissed by Uijeongbu-style enthusiasts, is a standard option originating from Songtan. Commonly acknowledged is the thickness of Songtan-style broth.
The base broth typically includes beef bone stock, complemented by essential ingredients like frozen minced beef, thinly sliced processed ham, and sausages, all of which are usually imported. Large amounts of spring onions and onions, along with homemade kimchi and a special sauce, contribute to the broth’s flavor. The dish typically includes one type of ham and sausage, enhanced with cheese to boost the umami. Near the end, minced garlic is added for aroma. Authentic Songtan-style Budae Jjigae traditionally uses Shin Ramyun noodles.
The intense flavor in local Songtan Budae Jjigae comes from the beef bone stock and beef fat, harmonizing with a generous amount of spring onions. Garlic and a special sauce add spiciness and pungency, complementing the umami from the cheese, sausage, and ham. Interestingly, the “smoked” flavor from sausage and ham is not as pronounced in Songtan-style Budae Jjigae, resembling more of a rich beef stew with kimchi. This depth of flavor from beef stock and fat marks a significant difference from franchised versions of the dish.
“Choi’s House,” a Songtan original, has a 53-year legacy as the pioneer, while “Kim’s House” has been around for about 30 years. Choi’s House, running a franchise, offers standardized packaging for takeaway orders, while Kim’s House prepares broth in bottles and ingredients in hygienic wraps on order, indicating a constant flow of both dine-in and takeaway customers.
Both Choi’s House and Kim’s House manage cooking time, order, and heat meticulously in the restaurant, ensuring the dish’s quality. While Choi’s House is housed in a large, standalone building with a parking lot, Kim’s House in Sinjang-dong exudes a more traditional vibe, located in a building established in the 1970s.
Near Seojeong-ri Station, a former employee of Kim’s House runs “Jogaene Budae Jjigae,” offering a unique flavor profile and more affordable prices compared to the two well-known restaurants. Notably, Songtan-style Budae Jjigae franchises like “Nolboo,” along with Choi’s House, often use American products in their recipes. The choice between Korean or American ingredients depends on personal taste, with the latter generally being saltier, especially the military-grade products.
The popularization of Songtan-style Budae Jjigae in Korea, with its heavy reliance on ham, beef bone broth, and seasoning sauce, has led to various adaptations. Some versions omit kimchi, incorporate different ingredients like tofu, mushrooms, or rice cakes, or transform into a spicy meat hot pot with an array of meats, including dumplings, bacon, pork belly, brisket, hamburger patties, and mac and cheese.
3-3. Paju Budae Jjigae
Paju-style, also known as Munsan-style, is one of the lesser-known branches of the Seoul metropolitan area’s Budae Jjigae. Its relative obscurity compared to the nationally renowned Uijeongbu-style or the early chain-commercialized Songtan-style is partly due to Paju’s limited accessibility, even with the opening of the Gyeongui Line in the 2020s. Typically, the clientele consists of night-shift workers and soldiers from nearby military bases who visit early in the morning. Recently, however, its presence has been gradually spreading through platforms like YouTube. A notable establishment is Ssamgeori Restaurant in Munsan-eup, claiming a “50-year tradition,” alongside several other Paju-style Budae Jjigae restaurants in the area, including Jeongmi Restaurant, which boasts a 30-year history.
While geographically close to Uijeongbu, Paju-style Budae Jjigae leans towards a similar lightness in flavor. However, it takes an even more extreme approach to minimalism. Instead of the typical milky beef bone broth, Paju-style often uses plain water or a clear broth based on vegetables or kimchi soup. Notably, it omits baked beans, a common ingredient in other regional styles. Another distinctive feature is the generous use of crown daisy leaves (ssukgat), giving the dish a visual resemblance to spicy fish stew. This heavy use of vegetables sets Paju-style apart, considering the sparse vegetable content in Uijeongbu and Songtan styles.
Unlike Songtan-style, where ingredients like ham and sausage are consumed first, with ramen noodles added towards the end, Paju-style incorporates noodles from the beginning, creating a stewed mixture. This preparation method can create a taste that lies somewhere between Uijeongbu and Songtan styles.
A key ingredient in Paju-style is the breakfast sausage, often referred to as ‘morning ham,’ known for its chewy texture. This non-casing sausage is cut into large pieces and added to the stew. Additionally, Paju-style tends to use Tulip ham, further distinguishing its flavor profile.
3-4. Gunsan Budae Jjigae
Gunsan-style Budae Jjigae, unique in being the only major variant from a non-capital region in South Korea, originates from Jeollabuk-do, Gunsan City. Its existence is attributed to the presence of U.S. military forces stationed in the area.
Distinct from the light-flavored Uijeongbu-style, the rich Songtan-style, and the vegetable and sausage-focused Paju-style, Gunsan-style incorporates beef broth and thinly sliced beef, presenting a somewhat divergent character. Like Songtan-style, it includes cheese, but it doesn’t pursue the clean taste of Uijeongbu-style. Instead, it offers a relatively milder flavor compared to the intensely rich taste of Songtan-style. However, among the four major styles of Budae Jjigae, Gunsan-style is less dominant in terms of influence and recognition, largely due to its non-capital location. Notable exceptions like the Bihaengjangjeongmun Budae Jjigae restaurant are few, with this particular establishment gaining modest fame for serving fried egg with half a slice of cheese as a side dish alongside its Budae Jjigae.
4. Popular of Budae Jjigae
Budae Jjigae, known for its generous portion size at an affordable price, is a popular post-event meal among college students on a budget. It’s a staple dish at hops near university areas, with its broth swelling up again with just the addition of water, making it an economical choice for students. Similar to Kimchi Jjigae, it pairs exceptionally well with Soju, a popular Korean alcohol.
Due to its recipe containing familiar Western ingredients like various processed meats and baked beans, Budae Jjigae is one of the Korean dishes particularly favored by Westerners. For instance, Wolf Schroeder, famously known as “Daehanminguknam,” featured in a Yogiyo commercial ordering Budae Jjigae and even launched a brand of the stew using his recipe.
However, Westerners, especially the older generation, are often initially shocked to learn that Spam, baked beans, hot dog sausages, and sliced cheese are included in the dish. There’s noticeable surprise and even dismay in “foreign reaction” content on seeing Spam as an ingredient. For instance, in a YouTube video by ‘Korean Englishman,’ British soldiers tasting Budae Jjigae showed shock upon trying Spam. Renowned American chef Anthony Bourdain praised it as “the best post-drinking food,” though Anderson Cooper was initially taken aback by the inclusion of Spam, yet seemed satisfied after tasting it.
Lonely Planet once selected Budae Jjigae as the best Korean dish, but a Korean cuisine promoter requested its removal, citing the dish’s association with the country’s impoverished past. The stew’s origin, involving leftover ham and sausages from U.S. military bases, is a reminder of past hardships for some older Koreans, while others cherish it as a nostalgic reminder. This ambivalence towards Budae Jjigae among older Koreans is somewhat akin to their mixed feelings about barley rice, which also harks back to less affluent times.
Previously known only to those interested in Korean culture, Budae Jjigae’s popularity soared during the COVID-19 pandemic, especially in the United States. With disrupted supply chains leading to panic buying and stockpiling of non-perishable foods like Spam, these items soon got sidelined in pantries. However, as interest in Korean culture grew and people began cooking more at home due to increased labor costs at restaurants, they turned to the internet and social media, discovering Budae Jjigae as a trendy dish that could transform mundane ingredients like Spam and baked beans into a delicious meal.
5. Origin of Budae Jjigae
After the outbreak of the Korean War in the 1950s, U.S. troops were stationed in Korea, leading to the leakage of military supplies like Spam, sausages, and bacon. These leftovers were combined with kimchi and initially stir-fried in a pot lid by impoverished Koreans. However, as stir-frying often resulted in burnt food, water was added, creating a stew-like dish suitable as an accompaniment to alcohol or rice, thus giving birth to Budae Jjigae in its current form.
Contrary to earlier beliefs that Budae Jjigae originated from U.S. military bases, it’s now thought to be more akin to German Eintopf or stew. Besides the famous versions in Uijeongbu and Songtan, regional variants have developed near major U.S. military bases, such as in Paju (Munsan), Gunsan, and Yongsan.
While Budae Jjigae and “ggul-gguli-juk” (a porridge made from food waste) both incorporate ingredients from U.S. military supplies and are boiled together, they differ significantly. Ggul-gguli-juk used food waste and was cooked like porridge, while Budae Jjigae was prepared with canned goods distributed to U.S. military bases.
The term ‘Budae Jjigae’ itself lends credibility to this origin story. Heo Ki-sook, the original owner of the renowned Odaeng Sikdang restaurant, adds validity to this theory. Heo recalls that in the early days, selling U.S. military surplus was legally prohibited, leading to frequent police summons for herself and fellow Budae Jjigae restaurateurs.
In Uijeongbu and Paju, both areas with U.S. military presence, there’s a clear distinction between Uijeongbu-style and Paju-style Budae Jjigae. Uijeongbu-style includes three types of meat – sausage, ham, minced meat – along with kimchi and tofu, whereas Paju-style features a broader variety of meats and vegetables, resembling a meat hotpot.
Despite Korea’s economic growth and the abundant food supply post-1970s, Budae Jjigae remained popular for its unique flavor. The widespread availability of instant ramen since the 1960s led to its inclusion as a standard ingredient, with ramen seasoning often added to enhance the stew’s depth of flavor.