South Korea is replete with destinations perfect for travel enthusiasts. In this post, we’ll explore Gyeongju, one of the most historically rich cities in South Korea, and I’ll recommend some must-visit spots for an unforgettable journey.
1. Introducing about Gyeongju
Gyeongju, nestled in South Korea’s North Gyeongsang Province, boasts a remarkable history as the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla, dating back to the Three Kingdoms period. This city, having served as the Silla capital for about a millennium, is renowned for its abundant historical relics. In Gyeongju, excavations for construction projects often lead to the discovery of countless artifacts, highlighting the city’s rich past. However, the abundance of cultural heritage sites has somewhat hindered urban and industrial development, leading to Gyeongju becoming a smaller city compared to its rapidly growing neighbors like Pohang, Ulsan, Busan, and Daegu.
As one of the most historically significant cities in South Korea, Gyeongju is a prime educational destination, frequently visited by students on school trips. The entire city is a testament to history, recognized globally as the Gyeongju Historic Areas by UNESCO, making it a living museum of Korean heritage.
2. Best Places in Gyeongju
2-1. Seokguram Grotto
2-1-1. About Seokguram Grotto
Seokguram, a stone grotto temple and a masterpiece of Buddhist cultural heritage, stands as a symbol of South Korea. It was created by Kim Daeseong during the Unified Silla period in the North-South States Period. Esteemed as National Treasure No. 24, its artistry and value have been globally recognized, leading to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, alongside Bulguksa Temple located on the slopes of Mount Toham.
As of May 4, 2023, entry to Seokguram is free. However, visitors cannot enter the grotto itself. Instead, they can view the interior through a glass barrier in a designated pathway. This measure is to prevent damage from humidity and wind, with modern air circulation systems in place to protect the cultural heritage. An exception is made once a year on Buddha’s Birthday, when visitors are allowed to circle the main Buddha statue inside the grotto, just as the ancient people of Silla did. Even then, photography inside is prohibited. On Buddha’s Birthday, it’s common to see long lines of people waiting to visit Seokguram, starting from the entrance road.
A notice stating ‘No Explanation Inside the Temple’ is posted along the pathway. This is because even a few voices can create a loud echo in the confined space of the grotto. Visitors, however, are free to stand and observe quietly for as long as they wish.
2-1-2. Why do we have to visit Seokguram Grotto
The main Buddha statue seated at the center of Seokguram is heralded as the most outstanding work among the stone Buddhas in Korean Buddhist art history. From this point onwards, it’s believed that subsequent stone Buddhas gradually declined in terms of artistic perfection. Even those unfamiliar with its historical background will be awe-struck by the statue’s immense size upon visiting.
During the Unified Silla period, starting from King Seongdeok’s reign through to the early period of King Gyeongdeok, the absolute monarchy of Silla reached its zenith. During this era, sects like the Hwaeom school of Buddhism formed the ideological foundation of the absolute monarchy. At this time, Gyeongju transformed into an international city, where cultures from the Tang Dynasty, India, and Persia were directly imported. The artistic characteristics of this period actively embraced the realism of the Tang Dynasty’s flourishing era, developing an ‘idealistic realism’ in art. This meant crafting Buddha statues that were realistically depicted yet aesthetically perfect, considering influences from the Gandhara art of India that also impacted China.
The main Buddha statue in Seokguram exemplifies this sensual idealistic realism. Its depiction of the collarbone, waist, and hips is strikingly linear. Unlike a compassionate expression often found in Buddha statues, this one resembles a king in its solemnity, with a robust, masculine aura. This reflects the strengthening of the absolute monarchy during that period. There’s even a theory that the statue was modeled after King Gyeongdeok himself, aligning with the ‘King as Buddha’ ideology. Perspective techniques were also used in its creation; the Buddha’s head is proportionally larger than its body when compared to human anatomy, and the halo (mandorla) sculpted on the rear roof is slightly oval-shaped in reality.
2-2. Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond
2-2-1. What is Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond
Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond are Unified Silla period palace ruins located in Gyeongju, South Korea. The term ‘Donggung’ implies the eastern palace within the royal palaces of the Silla Dynasty. Adjacent to Donggung is Wolji Pond, an artificial lake of significant size, serving as a symbol of the site. Historically, this site was a smaller scale palace used by the Silla royal family, traditionally inhabited by the sons of Silla kings. The founding of this site is attributed to King Munmu of Silla, who first constructed Wolji Pond in 674 AD, followed by the palace in 679 AD.
As a prime example of ancient Korean architecture, the site well preserves the original style of Unified Silla royal gardens. It provides valuable insights into the architectural and lifestyle practices of the time. Unlike other ancient Korean relics that are often excavated from tombs, the artifacts discovered here are unique in their everyday utility. These include items like door handles, hangers, scissors, combs, wooden slips used as time cards, tags marking the production dates of jeotgal (salted seafood), and various household utensils. Most of these artifacts are now housed in the National Museum of Gyeongju.
2-2-2. Reason to visit Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond
The historical significance of Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond is immense, highlighted not only by the fascinating artifacts from ancient Korea but also by the remarkable preservation of the site. Visiting this place, especially at night when the lake is illuminated, is a truly enchanting experience. The lights create a surreal atmosphere, allowing visitors to indirectly experience the glory of the Silla Dynasty.
The site is also home to a plethora of intriguing artifacts. If you prefer to avoid spoilers, please proceed with caution as we delve into some of these remarkable historical finds.
- Wooden Ju-ryeong-gu: This is a dice used in an ancient Korean drinking game, possibly the origin of modern drinking games in Korea. This 14-sided dice has various drinking-related penalties written on each face. Some of these penalties are still unclear in their exact modern-day interpretations. They include:
- Dancing without music
- Tapping on multiple people’s noses
- Drinking all your alcohol and then laughing loudly
- Drinking three cups of alcohol in one go
- Remaining still even if someone attacks you
- Singing a song by yourself and then drinking
- Drinking with your arm bent
- Not reacting when your face is tickled
- Making anyone sing a song of your choice
- Singing a melody of Wolgyeong (moon palace)
- Reciting a poem
- Spilling two cups of alcohol
- Not throwing away dirty objects
- Singing only sad songs by yourself
- Wooden Phallic Statue: Typically, ancient phallic statues are seen as having religious purposes. However, the ones excavated here show signs of actual use, with projections possibly added for enhanced stimulation, indicating they might have been used as dildos.
- Flush Toilet: Estimated to be from the 8th-century Silla Dynasty, this structure has wide stone footrests on either side with a toilet located below. It’s an artifact that demonstrates the refined culture of Silla’s elite class.
Additionally, numerous artifacts related to daily life have been excavated from this site. These artifacts are preserved at the Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond site, as well as in the National Museum of Gyeongju.
2-3. Cheomseongdae
Cheomseongdae is an astronomical observatory from the Silla Dynasty, constructed during the reign of Queen Seondeok. It holds the distinction of being National Treasure No. 31 of South Korea and is celebrated as the oldest existing astronomical observatory in the world. Unique among ancient structures on the Korean Peninsula, Cheomseongdae has maintained its original form without any restoration or reconstruction since its inception, making it a rare and valuable cultural heritage site.
Visiting this site, especially in combination with other nearby historical landmarks, is highly recommended for a comprehensive experience. A nighttime visit is particularly enchanting, as Cheomseongdae is beautifully illuminated, presenting a magical view. Although it may not strike visitors as particularly large or imposing, its significance as the oldest existing observatory in the world makes it a must-see destination for those interested in history and astronomy.
2-4. Woljeong Bridge
Woljeong Bridge, a historic structure originally built during the Silla Dynasty, is situated to the south of the site where the royal palace of Silla once stood. Although initially, only the bridge’s foundations remained, a restoration effort has brought back the splendor of Woljeonggyo for contemporary appreciation. It is believed that this bridge was a significant crossing point for many people during its time.
Visiting Woljeonggyo offers a unique experience. While it may be smaller in scale compared to the grand bridges of Seoul, it exudes a distinctly Oriental charm, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the essence of ancient Korean architecture and history.
